Stairway to Angel's landing, Zion National Park

Zion National Park is like everything you imagined a place named Zion would be - majestic, empowering, peaceful, grand and in vivid Technicolor. From the moment you enter the park you are filled with amazement looking at the rugged grandeur all around you. Zion Canyon is unlike the Grand Canyon, even though both have been carved by rivers, in Zion the geology consists of Navajo Sandstone and the red hues and stark landscape are unlike anything you see at the Grand Canyon. I had been to Zion and had tried to ascend the peak known as Angel’s landing more than once. It was only on my third try that I was successful. The trail to Angel’s landing is quite strenuous but doable by a healthy person except for the last half mile which is treacherous and littered with sharp drop offs and narrow paths. For part of this half mile climb to the summit there are chains attached to grip to as you climb the steep & narrow terrain. Most guide books and even the National Park Service says to avoid this trail if you have a fear of heights.

On top of Angel's Landing

At the end of Walter's Wiggles

The first part of the hike to Angel’s landing is pretty easy, the trail gradually gains elevation until you reach the area known as Walter’s Wiggles which is a series of 21 steep switch backs which were designed and laid at the turn of the 19^th century by Zion’s first park director. Once you complete the switchbacks you reach the area known as Scout Lookout, this is last stop before you make the last and final push to the summit of Angel’s landing. Most people turn around at this point as the remainder of the climb is quite scary and the idea of just hanging onto  chains to keep you from plummeting over a thousand feet put leads in most people’s feet. The first time I went to Zion, I was one of those lead footed people who turned back at Scout Lookout, the very steepness of the summit and the difficulty of the terrain added by the fact you were holding on the chain with just your bare hands made me turn around and head back the way I came. 

I went back to Zion almost a decade later and was determined to ascend to the peak this time. I made my way through Walter’s Wiggles which was a lot of work especially in the September heat and stood proudly at Scout Lookout looking at the summit of Angel’s landing. Did I mention I was doing this hike completely on my own??!! I started making my way up the chain, the chain was actually quite thick and covered in rust in some places, I held on for dear life and precariously made my way to the next point where there was enough room to take a break. I sat down and looked around and I could see the summit of Angel’s landing about five hundred or so feet above. This next bit was the scariest, it was like a little cliff bridge of sorts with a steep drop off on either sides, and then the remainder of the climb was still scary compared to what I had just completed. I sat there and pondered, yes I pondered, I thought what if I crossed the bridge area but then was too scared to get back, what would I do, since I was on my own there wouldn’t be anyone there to help me to descend or talk me through some of the precarious blind turns around the cliff’s edge if needed. 

I decided the wise thing for me to do at that point was to turn back. So about five hundred or so feet from the summit I turned and made my way back down. I did have to stay close to other people in case I needed any help as the descent down the chains was just as scary or even scarier than the way coming up.On the way down you’re forced to look below and you can see how far you can fall in case you miss your footing or your grip on the chain and so it's even more scarier!! I had failed to ascend Angel’s landing on my second try.

View of the Virgin River

In April of the following year I was determined to try again but this time I had a six-foot tall muscular secret weapon with me and his name was Russell!! We made our way up the trail again, trudged through Walter’s Wiggles, and made it without incident to Scout Lookout. We then slowly started climbing the chains towards the summit. We reached the point where I had turned around the last time I was there and again this time I tried to chicken out and offered to wait which Russell made it across the natural cliff bridge to the summit and back. Russell was very patient and offered to sit there with me while I gained the courage to make it across. I sat there and finally decided that since this was my third time I really had to give it everything I had so I started making it across the bridge one foot at a time and holding on tightly to the chains as I made my way across. We made our way slowly but steadily and with each shaky step we finally reached the top. I just plopped down as my legs felt that they couldn’t move anymore and I was too scared to stand as I was worried that the wind might blow me over. But overall I was elated that I had made it to the top!! Three tries in twelve years and I had finally made it!!

Trail

I kind of crawled and crept across the summit to get a better view of where I had come from. The view was simply beautiful, you could see the valley below and the beautiful mountains all around.

We waited until I recovered enough to brave the journey back down. As before the descent was scarier than the ascent, at some places it was like a scene from the movie Cliffhanger where I was climbing holding on to the chain and Russell then holding the chain with his arms around me in case I lost my foot or hand hold he would be there to catch me. Though we were going very slowly I did feel secure being wrapped in his arms…yes, it does sound a tad romantic but romance was the last thing on my mind at that time. We made it back to Scout Lookout and the one thing that was on my mind as we both lay down on the ground emotionally and physically exhausted from our descent was how wonderful and majestic Zion was and how lucky we were to experience all this majesty in our lives.

View of Angel's Landing

View From Angel's Landing